Resin prints still sticky or tacky after curing
A print that still feels sticky after washing and curing almost always has a thin film of liquid resin left on the surface. The most common reason is wash alcohol that already holds too much dissolved resin: as the alcohol evaporates, the resin it carried stays behind and makes the part tacky. Less often the part was cured while still wet, cured too briefly, or has resin trapped in hollows and recesses.
Most likely causes (in order)
- Wash IPA is saturated with resin: Formlabs reports parts can start to feel tacky once the IPA holds about 5–10% dissolved resin, and recommends replacing it at around 10–12%.
- A resin and IPA film dried on the surface: After washing in IPA a layer of diluted resin coats the part. The IPA evaporates but the resin does not, so the surface feels tacky (Formlabs).
- Cured before it was fully dry: Curing a part that is still wet with solvent can trap residue on the surface. Formlabs advises letting IPA-washed parts dry for at least 30 minutes before post-curing.
- Resin trapped in hollows, holes or recesses: Liquid resin hiding inside a hollow model, drain holes or deep detail seeps back out after washing and leaves sticky patches.
- Not enough cure: Areas the UV light can't reach, or a cure that is too short for the resin, stay soft or tacky. Check your resin maker's recommended cure time.
Settings to change
| Setting | Change | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Wash solvent | Replace or filter IPA once it looks cloudy or yellow, or measure it if you have a hydrometer | Formlabs recommends replacing IPA at about 10–12% resin concentration; tackiness can start at 5–10%. |
| Wash routine | Use two stages: a quick pre-rinse in a small container of used IPA, then a wash in clean IPA | The pre-rinse removes most of the resin and keeps the main bath clean longer (Formlabs washing best practices). |
| Second wash | If a part is still tacky after the first wash, rewash it in clean IPA straight away | Starting the second wash immediately stops the leftover resin curing in ambient light (Formlabs). |
| Drying | Let parts dry fully, at least 30 minutes for IPA, before curing; a fan or compressed air helps | Formlabs advises always drying parts completely before post-curing. |
| Post-cure | Follow the resin maker's cure time and turn the part so recesses get light | Shadowed or briefly cured areas can stay soft or tacky. |
Exact values depend on your printer and resin. Start from the resin maker's recommended settings and change one thing at a time.
Where to change it in your slicer
Setting names and locations for Lychee, CHITUBOX, Anycubic Photon Workshop and UVtools. Where we could not confirm an exact menu location, we list the setting name only. Names can differ slightly between versions.
Quick checklist
- Look at your wash IPA: if it's cloudy or yellow, replace or filter it
- Rewash the tacky part in clean IPA, then let it dry completely
- Flush hollows, drain holes and deep recesses with clean IPA
- Cure only once the part is fully dry
- Cure for your resin's recommended time and rotate the part so every side gets light
- Wear gloves: tacky prints still have liquid resin on them
FAQ
Why is my resin print still sticky after curing?
Usually because resin was left on the surface before curing, most often from IPA that already holds a lot of dissolved resin. Rewash in clean IPA, let the part dry fully, and cure again.
Will more curing fix a tacky print?
Only if the cause is a short cure. If the tackiness comes from a resin film left by dirty IPA, extra curing just hardens that film. Rewash in clean IPA first.
How do I know when my IPA is too dirty?
Formlabs replaces IPA at about 10–12% resin concentration and notes parts may start to feel tacky at 5–10%. Without a hydrometer, cloudy or yellowed IPA and tacky parts are the practical signs.
How long should a print dry before curing?
Formlabs recommends at least 30 minutes for parts washed in IPA, in a well-ventilated space.
Not sure which one you've got?
Upload 1–4 photos of the failed print and PrintCleric ranks the likely causes and tells you exactly which settings to change, with sources.
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Sources
- Formlabs Support: Measuring the resin concentration of IPA
- Formlabs Support: Best practices for washing prints
- Formlabs Support: SLA basic finishing steps
- CHITUBOX Docs: Configure Print Settings
- Lychee Documentation: Burn-in / Bottom Layers Calibration
- Anycubic Wiki: Common parameter description
- UVtools (official repository)
Related fixes
- Layer separation / delamination in resin prints
- Failed supports: model stuck to the FEP, only supports printed
- Nothing on the build plate (print stuck to the FEP)
- Suction cups and blowouts (volcanoes) in hollow resin prints
- Elephant's foot (flared bottom layers)
- Blooming and over-exposure: soft details and rough surfaces
Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection when handling uncured resin, and work in a ventilated space.