Nothing on the build plate (print stuck to the FEP)
You lift the plate and it's empty, or there's just a thin film. The print, or a flat cured sheet, is in the vat or stuck to the FEP. The first layers never bonded to the build plate.
Most likely causes (in order)
- Bottom exposure too low: Bottom layers are deliberately over-cured to grip the plate. Too little and they stay on the film.
- Plate not leveled / zeroed: If the gap between plate and film is too big, the first layer can't bond to the plate.
- Dirty or too-smooth plate: Residue or a polished surface reduces adhesion.
- Weak light source or uneven light: Ageing or uneven UV output can cause failures, sometimes only on one area of the plate.
Settings to change
| Setting | Change | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom exposure time | Increase; typically 5–10× normal layer exposure | Bottom layers must over-cure to grip the plate (CHITUBOX). |
| Plate leveling / Z-zero | Re-level with paper method and re-zero | Gap too large prevents adhesion. |
| Build plate surface | Clean; lightly sand or use a flex plate | Residue/scratches reduce adhesion (CHITUBOX). |
| Vat check | Strain resin and clear cured debris from the FEP before reprinting | Debris blocks UV and can damage the screen. |
Exact values depend on your printer and resin. Start from the resin maker's recommended settings and change one thing at a time.
Quick checklist
- Strain the resin and remove the cured sheet from the FEP
- Clean the build plate; lightly sand if it's very smooth
- Re-level the plate and re-zero Z
- Increase bottom exposure (often several times normal exposure)
- If only one side fails, check leveling and run a screen/exposure test
- Warm the resin and room to roughly 20–30 °C
FAQ
Why won't my resin print stick to the build plate?
The usual suspects are low bottom exposure, a badly leveled plate, or a dirty/too-smooth plate surface. Fix those in that order.
How long should bottom exposure be?
It's commonly several times your normal layer exposure, but it depends on your resin and printer. Start from the resin maker's recommended settings.
Why did only some prints on the plate fail?
Failures in one area usually point to uneven leveling, a damaged spot on the FEP, or uneven light across the screen.
Not sure which one you've got?
Upload 1–4 photos of the failed print and PrintCleric ranks the likely causes and tells you exactly which settings to change, with sources.
Sources
- CHITUBOX Academy: All You Need to Know about Failed Printing
- Lychee Docs: Nothing on the Build Plate
- Lychee Docs: Half of the prints stuck to the Build Plate
Related fixes
- Layer separation / delamination in resin prints
- Failed supports: model stuck to the FEP, only supports printed
- Suction cups and blowouts (volcanoes) in hollow resin prints
- Elephant's foot (flared bottom layers)
- Blooming and over-exposure: soft details and rough surfaces
- Cracking resin prints (hollow parts and post-curing)
Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection when handling uncured resin, and work in a ventilated space.