Failed supports: model stuck to the FEP, only supports printed
This is when the raft and supports are still on the build plate but the model is missing, found stuck to the FEP film, or only partly formed. Sometimes it's just an arm or weapon that's missing. The supports couldn't hold the model through the peel forces of each layer.
Most likely causes (in order)
- Supports too thin or too sparse: Heavy minis and large flat areas need more and thicker supports to survive each peel.
- Contact tips too small: Tiny tips snap easily; the model drops onto the FEP.
- Large cross-sections: Big flat layers create more suction and peel force per layer.
- Unsupported islands: Parts that start mid-air (hands, weapon tips, cape edges) begin curing on the film if nothing supports them.
- Under-exposure: Weakly cured supports and layers tear apart more easily.
Settings to change
| Setting | Change | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Support density / thickness | Add more supports and use medium/heavy under large islands | Supports must survive peel forces (Lychee: Just the supports). |
| Contact tip diameter | Increase (e.g. 0.3 → 0.4 mm for heavy minis) | Bigger tips hold the model during peel. |
| Orientation | Tilt 30–45° to reduce per-layer cross-section | Smaller layer area lowers peel force. |
| Normal exposure | Run an exposure calibration test; increase if under | Weakly cured layers tear off. |
| Island detection | Run island detection in the slicer and support every island | Unsupported islands cure to the FEP (CHITUBOX). |
| Overhang supports | Add light supports along edges and lowest points | Overhangs need support to form correctly. |
Exact values depend on your printer and resin. Start from the resin maker's recommended settings and change one thing at a time.
Quick checklist
- Strain the resin and clear cured debris off the FEP before reprinting
- Run island detection in your slicer and support every island
- Add more supports under heavy areas; use medium/heavy supports for the main load
- Increase contact tip size slightly
- Tilt the model 30–45° to shrink the per-layer cross-section
- Check normal exposure with a calibration print
FAQ
Why is my resin print stuck to the FEP but the supports are on the plate?
The supports printed fine but broke at the contact points, so the model cured onto the film. Usually the supports were too light or too few for the model's weight and the peel forces.
Should I clean the vat after a failed print?
Yes. Cured pieces left on the FEP can block light, cause the next print to fail, and can damage the film or screen. Strain the resin and remove debris first.
What angle should I print miniatures at?
A tilt of roughly 30–45° is common, because it reduces the area of each layer. The best angle depends on the model, so check your slicer's cross-section and island views.
Not sure which one you've got?
Upload 1–4 photos of the failed print and PrintCleric ranks the likely causes and tells you exactly which settings to change, with sources.
Sources
Related fixes
- Layer separation / delamination in resin prints
- Nothing on the build plate (print stuck to the FEP)
- Suction cups and blowouts (volcanoes) in hollow resin prints
- Elephant's foot (flared bottom layers)
- Blooming and over-exposure: soft details and rough surfaces
- Cracking resin prints (hollow parts and post-curing)
Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection when handling uncured resin, and work in a ventilated space.