Removing resin supports: before or after curing?
There is no single right order, and the big names disagree. Formlabs recommends washing, drying and post-curing first, then removing supports, because supports hold the part's shape while light and heat can warp it. ELEGOO's beginner guide and Lychee's post-processing guide remove supports before the final cure, when they are softer and easier to cut. The practical answer depends on the part: keep supports on through the cure for thin, flat or long parts that could warp, and take them off first when they are dense enough to block light or when the part is delicate enough that brittle cured supports might snap it.
Most likely causes (in order)
- Thin parts warped during curing: Formlabs notes parts may warp under light and heat without structural support, and that thin, inadequately supported or unevenly lit features are most at risk. Leaving supports on through the cure helps anchor them.
- Supports snapped a thin part off: Fully cured supports are harder and more brittle. A Formlabs staff reply notes supports can be softer and easier to remove after washing but before post-curing, and forum users report brittle cured standard resin breaking in the wrong place on fine areas.
- Uncured or sticky spots under dense supports: Formlabs says dense support structures can block light from reaching some surfaces during post-curing, and recommends removing supports as needed so light reaches every surface.
- Pits and nubs where supports touched: Contact points leave marks either way. Both Formlabs and ELEGOO sand support marks afterwards, working from coarse to fine grit.
Settings to change
| Setting | Change | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Default order for sturdy parts | Wash, dry, post-cure, then cut supports | Formlabs recommends removing supports after post-curing so the part keeps its shape under light and heat. |
| Delicate minis (thin blades, spears, fingers) | Cut supports after washing, while the resin is still a little soft, then dry and cure | A Formlabs staff reply notes supports may be softer and easier to remove before post-curing; ELEGOO and Lychee both remove supports before the final cure. |
| Thin, flat or long parts | Leave supports on through the cure, or lay flat sheet-like parts directly on the turntable | Formlabs advises leaving supports in place whenever possible to prevent warping, and notes flat parts may be best supported on the turntable itself. |
| Densely supported parts | Remove some supports before curing so light reaches every surface | Formlabs warns dense supports can block light during post-curing. |
| Cutting technique | Use flush cutters or a hobby knife and cut at the contact point rather than twisting supports off | Formlabs and ELEGOO both use cutters for removal; pulling or twisting puts force on the part itself. |
| Finishing | Sand remaining nubs from coarse to fine grit | ELEGOO and Formlabs both sand support marks after removal. |
Exact values depend on your printer and resin. Start from the resin maker's recommended settings and change one thing at a time.
Where to change it in your slicer
Setting names and locations for Lychee, CHITUBOX, Anycubic Photon Workshop and UVtools. Where we could not confirm an exact menu location, we list the setting name only. Names can differ slightly between versions.
Quick checklist
- Decide per model: sturdy and thick parts can be cured on supports, delicate parts are easier to free while still soft
- Wash and let the part dry fully before curing (at least 30 minutes for IPA, per Formlabs)
- Cut supports at the contact point with flush cutters; don't twist them off
- If supports are dense, thin some out before curing so light reaches the whole surface
- Keep thin, flat or long parts on their supports through the cure to reduce warping
- Wear gloves and eye protection: uncured resin is a skin irritant and cured supports can fly when cut
- Sand support marks coarse to fine
FAQ
Should I remove resin supports before or after curing?
Formlabs recommends after post-curing, because supports stop parts warping under light and heat. ELEGOO and Lychee remove them before the final cure because they come off more easily. For sturdy parts either works; for thin parts that could warp keep them on, and for delicate minis that might snap, cutting them while still soft is often safer.
Why do my minis break when I remove supports?
Fully cured resin is harder and more brittle, so cured supports can take a thin part with them. Try cutting supports at the contact point with flush cutters after washing but before curing, and avoid twisting supports off.
Can supports cause sticky or uncured spots?
Yes. Formlabs notes dense supports can block light from reaching parts of the surface during post-curing. Remove some before curing so every surface gets light.
Do I need to dry the print before curing?
Yes. Formlabs recommends letting IPA-washed parts dry for at least 30 minutes, and ELEGOO warns that curing a wet model can leave white residue on it.
Not sure which one you've got?
Upload 1–4 photos of the failed print and PrintCleric ranks the likely causes and tells you exactly which settings to change, with sources.
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Sources
- Formlabs Support: SLA basic finishing steps
- Formlabs Support: Best practices for post-curing prints
- Formlabs Community Forum: Order of post-processing
- ELEGOO: Get Started in Resin Printing (post-processing)
- Lychee Docs: Post-Processing
- CHITUBOX Docs: Configure Print Settings
- Lychee Documentation: Burn-in / Bottom Layers Calibration
- Anycubic Wiki: Common parameter description
- UVtools (official repository)
Related fixes
- Layer separation / delamination in resin prints
- Failed supports: model stuck to the FEP, only supports printed
- Nothing on the build plate (print stuck to the FEP)
- Suction cups and blowouts (volcanoes) in hollow resin prints
- Elephant's foot (flared bottom layers)
- Blooming and over-exposure: soft details and rough surfaces
Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection when handling uncured resin, and work in a ventilated space.